Sebastian White :: Aruba -- The Happy Island

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Aruba: The Happy Island

The Sunday Spectator | January 2007
By Sebastian White

ORANJESTAD, ARUBA —“You can't be in Aruba and not be happy,” my tour guide Ruben says when I ask about the motto on the plates of his screaming yellow Jeep which declare this to be "The Happy Island."

On this 100-degree day, as we drop the top and set off along the breezy west coast of Aruba on his signature "Shake and Bake" tour (use your imagination), Ruben throws me a liability waiver to sign and tells me to strap in.

It's clear this tour will be anything but typical. But then again, from the moment one steps off the plane in Aruba, it's clears that this is no ordinary Caribbean isle. Closer to South America both in geography (Venezuela is 15 miles away) and in personality than the other islands of the region, Aruba romances visitors with its genuine friendliness, endless beaches, and an unexpected desert landscape.

There are few signs that this is the same place that was one year ago engulfed in the media frenzy over the disappearance of Alabama teenager Natalee Holloway. The case of the 18-year-old who vanished here on her senior class trip remains unsolved, ensuring that the American news channels that came en masse to cover the story for months have since moved on to new assignments.

The public relations nightmare—replete with threats of boycotts over a perceived bungling of the investigation—that briefly cast shadows on the island’s traditional appeal has had no lasting impact, as hoteliers and locals will tell you, if the subject comes up. Arubans have tried to get on with life after Natalee, and with good reason: their livelihood depends on it.

On this island, where two decades ago tourism eclipsed petroleum as the dominant industry, hotels, restaurants, and other hospitality services that cater to Aruba’s tourists—75 percent of whom come from the U.S.—are buzzing and busier than ever. Sensationalized news stories about the dangers of Aruba have been replaced by excitement about a new Westin resort that opened recently on Palm Beach, and hopeful speculation that a Ritz-Carlton might be coming to town.

Ruben and his co-pilot-fiancee, Janice, explain all this to me as we cruise past the windsurfers of Arashi Beach and turn up the hill by the dunes to the stark California Lighthouse to take in the views. Named for the California—a ship that ran aground here and, years before, was the last ship to have contact with the Titanic—the lighthouse sits atop a breathtaking promontory with excellent vistas of the entire island. And breathtaking it truly is—this spot is one of the windiest on what is already an incredibly windy island. Looking down Aruba’s spine from the lighthouse, the impact of the trade winds is evident: the landscape of the leeward and windward sides of the island is starkly different.

The protected western shore contains Aruba’s many fine beaches, its hotels, and its cheery capital of Oranjestad while the eastern coast is rocky, rough, and undeveloped, having few amenities but plenty of natural attractions. The interior is almost extra-terrestrial, with vast swaths of land covered with coral instead of grass (parts of Aruba used to be underwater), while the remainder of the island is blanketed with cacti and sand dunes that wouldn’t be out of place in Arizona.

After getting our bearings at the lighthouse, we set course for the eastern side of the island. But it’s been raining for days, so my guides’ usual route—straight across the sand dunes and down the shoreline—isn’t possible today. Instead, we wend our way along back roads dotted with modest, colorful homes. Every other house looks like it’s a construction site, owing to the vagaries of the local banking industry, Janice explains. “It can take a person ten years to finish their house here. Banks are real sticklers when it comes to doling out loans,” she says. “People have to involve their families and friends in house-building. It becomes a celebration.”

Indeed, many things on this Dutch Caribbean island feel like a party. The attitude of the people is noticeably upbeat, and the relatively high standard of living coupled with a perfect climate (temperatures hover around 85 degrees with no humidity) can’t hurt. In a few short days here I’ve discovered no shortage of people who’ll volunteer a restaurant recommendation or an itinerary for a night out on the town--and then join you at the bar for an Aruba Ariba (Blue Curacao, Triple Sec, vodka, two kinds of local rum, and fruit punch) or the locally-brewed Balashi beer.

A refreshing local specialty, an Aruba Ariba sounds especially appealing after our first hour in the blazing sun. I can feel my neck beginning to burn—that would be the “Bake” half of our Jeep tour—as Janice wags her finger and reminds me with a laugh, “I told you to put sunscreen on!”

Just then, we’re presented with a jolting surprise. Ruben slams on the brakes as we scream around a narrow corner at high speed and come upon a band of goats sauntering in the middle of the road, bringing traffic to a forced standstill.

Life here moves slowly—even for the animals. “Only in Aruba,” I think to myself.

Eventually, the meandering goats continue with their business and so do we, soon arriving at the swimming hole where Ruben spent the lazy days of his youth. We all feel the urge to dip our toes in the water, but these roiling blue seas are not so friendly—and Janice and I laugh in disbelief that anyone would try to swim here. After all, this is the spot where years of pounding ocean waves carved the Natural Bridge, one of Aruba’s top tourist attractions. The 100-foot coral rock bridge, shaped out of the shoreline and wide enough for vehicles to drive over, suddenly collapsed in 2005. But there’s good news for the owner of the adjacent “Thirst Aid Stand,” who makes his livelihood from visitors to the bridge: the battering of the ocean forces is so strong that another natural bridge is already forming nearby.

But like Niagara Falls, even the most stunning natural feature can get old quickly, so we shoot up the beach to the imposing Bushiribana Ruins, a remarkably crowd-free tourist attraction. The crumbling stone fortification, sitting at the edge of a lonely expanse oriented toward the eastern sea, once housed a gold-smelting operation. Pirates who plied these waters were so intent on capturing Aruba’s gold riches that Bushiribana was built to scare them off. It’s possible to step into the ruins and climb around the 1860s-era structure, and visitors really should. There’s a haunting sense of decaying beauty about the place that makes it a must-see for those interested in Aruba’s history, or just those looking for the perfect photo opportunity.

Touring Aruba, one begins to see it for its contrasts—European and South American; modern and historic; colorful buildings on a muted landscape; and fortunately for me, outdoor adventure and chic luxury. After hours of ‘shaking and baking,’ Ruben and Janice cut me a break and we head back to the hotel where I finally get that Aruba Ariba I’ve been craving. It’s a welcome reprieve after a day in the sun. Still, on this island where one can either do nothing or do it all, I opt for the latter.

I have an appointment that evening at Sunset Grille, the lobby-side restaurant at the Radisson Resort. Typically it’s a smart move to avoid hotel fare, but not in Aruba, which many consider the ‘food island’ for its abundance of fine destination restaurants.

As Sunset Grille begins to kick into high gear for another busy night, Chef Matt Boland takes me on a tour of his kitchen, shouting out instructions to his staff in Papiamento, the local Creole dialect, as effortlessly as if he were a native of Aruba, and not Rochester, the hometown he left many years ago for culinary stints in Ithaca and Paris. His work has earned the restaurant accolades from Wine Spectator as one of best in the Caribbean.

We wander through the kitchen as Boland shows off some of his top-shelf ingredients—crab biceps flown in from Seattle, filet mignon from New York, local veal. He’s an affable fellow, and his commitment to the kitchen and his customers comes through. “We should charge more,” Boland says of his menu, “but we want to give people value.”

Still, food doesn’t come cheap on Aruba, which is a good 1,000 miles from the U.S. mainland, its main source of imports. But if there’s any place to splurge, Sunset Grille is it. We make a final lap around his kitchen as Boland points out his favorite picks. I save myself the trouble of agonizing over the extensive menu and order his recommendations (a grilled vegetable stack with gorgonzola and balsamic drizzle, a bite of crab, and Veal Oscar)—after all, you always listen to the chef—and then settle in for a glass of wine in the front of the dining room as Boland works his magic.

In the distance, over the restaurant terrace, the sun is setting on the horizon, over the vibrant blues and greens of the Caribbean. This truly is “The Happy Island,” I think to myself.

IF YOU GO

Aruba is located 15 miles off the coast of Venezuela in the southern Caribbean Sea, 4 ½ hours by air from New York. For more information, including details about discount travel packages, contact Aruba Tourism at (800) TO-ARUBA or on the web at aruba.com. The U.S. dollar is widely accepted throughout the island.

How to Get There

American, Continental, Delta, JetBlue, United and US Airways all serve Aruba from Rochester and Buffalo. Airfare for travel this spring starts at about $350 roundtrip (plus tax). Total flight time from western New York is six to seven hours. As of January 23, passports are now required for adults and children traveling by air to all destinations outside the U.S., including Aruba.

Where to Stay

Luxury: The Radisson Aruba Resort and Casino on Palm Beach boasts some of the island’s finest accommodations (Queen Beatrix of the Netherlands can be found ensconced in the resort’s sumptuous penthouse when she visits the island), impeccable service, and a new full-service spa. Double rooms start at around $200. Tel. (297) 586 6555, or on the web at radisson.com/aruba.

Budget: The Manchebo Beach Resort and Spa on Eagle Beach offers clean, no-frills rooms with balconies overlooking one of Aruba’s biggest beaches. Doubles start at $145. Tel. (800) 528-1234 and on the web at manchebo.com.

Where to Eat

Aruba is well regarded for its restaurant selection. If you’re going to splurge on one meal during your vacation, be sure to do so at Sunset Grille. The restaurant is one of the Caribbean’s top-ranked restaurants and its food truly lives up to its lofty reputation. Expect to pay about $100 per person for dinner, including wine. Reservations recommended. Tel. (297) 586-6555.

Frequent visitors to Aruba rave about Driftwood, a small restaurant in downtown Oranjestad that features local seafood caught daily by the restaurateur. Expect to pay about $50 per person for a dinner of Aruban-style fish (pan-fried with light Creole spices) including wine. Reservations recommended. Tel. (297) 583-2515.